Peurto Colombia The Real R & R

And so it finally arrived...R&R! The group were excited and after an overnight bus journey from Ciudad Bolivar to Maracuay and a short but very windy taxi journey from Maracuay we arrived in Puerto Colombia. Our hotel ´Casa Pueblo´was a lovely surprise, total luxury compared to any of our lodgings over the past month. The little town was bustling and lively and everyone has enjoyed good food, and the palm tree lined beach. After 4 weeks of self catering and trekking it´s nice to have a few days to relax here without feeling like we are living out of a bag.

With just one full day of the expedition left, it clear that this has been an adventure, an experience of a lifetime and just the most amazing month. We have seen epic jungle, endless savanna, busy towns, rolling countryside, paradise beaches and the tallest waterfall in the world. We´ve eaten Ants, termites, chickens cooked over open fires and all sorts of delicacies cooked by the group on trek. An most amazingly of all we have climbed Roraima; the magnificent Tepui with the most bizarre summit I think any of us have even seen. It´s been hard at times but the group have pulled through, they have achieved alot and come a long way. We will be sad to leave Venezuela which has proven to be an incredibly interesting, utterly amazing and totally diverse country, and the most fantastic place for our month long adventure.

Angel Falls 2

A leisurely start this morning saw the group embarking on a new adventure. We took slightly bigger long boats than yesterday for the 4 hour trip up the river to Angel Falls. Travelling up the Rio Carrao we encountered rapids which the boatmen skillfully but exhilaratingly guided us through. After getting off the boats and walking for 1/2 hour we took the boats once more towards our first stop of the dayat the ´Pools of Happiness.´Many of the group took advantage of plunging into the cool water, a refreshing change from the heat of the day. On the boats once more after a quick stop for lunch we continued to power up stream, our guides prepared us for the sight we had been waiting for. As we turned around a final bend in the river, the jungle parted and there, visibly thundering off the top of the mountain was Angel Falls. A continuous drop of white water, cascading down the vertical side of the Tepui. With this now in view we stopped and walked the short distance to our jungle camp for the night, taking just our cameras we started the short hour walk to the falls themselves. It seemed a long time since we had been trekking in jungle but the group soon grew accustomed to the roots, branches and trees. Encountering a coral snake constricting and then eating a mouse, a huge maze of spider´s webs hanging in the trees above us and vines strong enough to swing on reminded us of what an amazing place we were in.
Aftera 20 minute ascent we arrived at the view point of ´Salto Angel´as we appeared out of the vegetation we heard it before we saw it, thundering and echoing through the forest. The sight was absolutely breathtaking, clear skies allowed us to see the water plummet over the edge of the tepui before exploding and cascading, as if in slow motion, down the enormous drop into the churning pools below. With a total a drop of 807metres this was a waterfall of epic proportion, totally amazing and the group looked on in awe. Back at the jungle camp the group reflected on what they had seen over the most delicious meal of potatoes and chickens cooked to perfection by the boat men on spits over an open fire.

Angel Falls

With just under a week to go, the R & R really began with out trip to Angel Falls. We had an early start and left for Ciudad Bolivar airport at 6am. It was a welcome relief to be carrying our day sacks after the heavy bags we had carried on the trek. The Cessnas that would take the group to Canaima, only accessible by air, were not disimilar in looks to the plane of Jimmie Angel the American explorer who first discovered the falls and who they were consequently named after, and whose plane now sits outside Ciudad Bolivar airport for all to see. Angel Falls or ´Salto Angel´cascades from the top of the Áyuantepui´in the middle of the jungle in Parque Nacional Canaima, Venezuela´s second largest park. The group split into 13and 5 to travel over savanna, jungle and then close to various tepuis and over the surging Carrao river to reach their destination. After paying arrival tax we took a short truck journey to Kavac camping site, as 18 hammocks were rigged up we walked down to the paradise stylew beach on the edge of the lagoon. Lined with palm trees the pinky water lapped at the shore. In the blazing sunshine the team were able to lie on the beach in view of 3 powerful waterfalls. After a few hours we met our guide and took a short boat ride towards the 3 waterfalls which had been visible during the day. Disembarking the long boat we made our way to the first waterfall ´Salto El Sapo´ walking behind the ferocious water we were soaked in seconds, the water was surprisingly warm, yet it powerfully dropped in front of us in a white, foamy curtain. The noise was immense, the water roared all around us as the team carefully made thier way over the rocks behind the falls. After this exhilarating experience the team were taken to another, bigger fall ´Salto Hacha´which had been clearly visible all day from the beach. This was more powerful, noisier and more dramatic than the last. There was chance to sit under the mighty plummet of the waters to the lagoon below. Spray enveloped us and once again we were saoked. After this amazing experience the group made thier way back to camp for dry clothes and warm drinks.

Back to Ciudad Bolivar...

After the 6 day trek the group enjoyed not onoly a small lie in but a lazy day having a leisurely breakfast at the local cafe. After a team meeting where R&R plans were finalised some of the group took taxis over the border to do some shopping in Brazil in La Linea, a small town very much geared up for tourists, unlike most of Venezuela! Loaded with shopping bags, some of us even with hammocks, we returned to the camp to go on the overnight bus to Ciudad
Bolivar. This journey was not without incident, after only 15 minutes the bus broke down and we had to wait 1 1/2 hours for another one to turn up. Eventually we switched coaches and continued on our way. Another day´s rest in Ciudad Bolivar allowed the group to sleep, eat and more importantly buy supplies for our trip to Angel Falls.

Roraima: The Summit and descent

For our only full day on top of Roraima our guide wanted an early start. As we walked out of our camp into the mist it was easy to see how the tepuis support their own eco system. Truly unique, the mist only added to the eerie atmosphere and quiet stillness on top of Roraima. We walked across the seemingly identical sections, without our guides we would have been entirely lost. We made our way to the Crystal valley to see the quartx fields, passing on our way many of the endemic flora in this harsh little micro climate. The ´jacuzzis´ (cold plunge pools) lay still and deep in the smooth rock which eventually gave way to harsher land with mini pillar like sections perfect for a quick team photo opportunity. The final point of the tour was ´The Window´a hole in the rock floor with plunging views to the ground below. The mist however obscured this view but added to the feeling of an utter abyss below us as we peered over the edge of the Tepui feeling we could topple over at any point.

The descent was much quicker than the trek up, with civilization and more importantly pizza getting closer the group rallied together to reach the goal of a 2 day trip. Setting up camp at Rio Tek the first night the group were in good spirits. Looking back at Roraima, a dark, monstrous shadow in the moonlight as the fire flies flickered through the grass and stars twinkled in the moonlit sky we were able to feel the enormity of our achievements. The final day of the trek had us pushing hard towards the village of Paratepui and after leaving at 6.30am the first of the group crossed the line at around 10am with the others not far behind. Hot and exhausted the majority of the team took the trucks back to Santa Elena, leaving one truck to stop off in the Pemon settlement of San Francisco to look at the crafts. That night back in Kamadac´s camp site the team basked in their achievement of the last 6 days.

Roraima 3 "What a doddle´!"

With a fairly early start we spent breakfast looking up at the mist covered ramp. Anxious but excited we began the hardest day of the trek. Climbing on all fours for the first half hour we clambered up the steep ground but spirits continued to stay high. As we climbed on we were able to catch glimpses through the trees of what we had left behind the savanna still stretching into the distance and base camp growing fainter as we trekked on up the steep and difficult terrain. After the open land of the past 2 days the more jungle like route provided the group with a change of scenery. From around us trees reached up into the sky, roots, logs and boulders lay in our path as the group carefully made tracks up the ramp. The futher we trekked the more exicted we became, and so the belief grew that the group could in fact get to the top. After and early lunch the group pressed on, passing under two waterfalls saw the group donning thier previously unused waterproofs. Looking up through the forest the Tepui rose to dizzying heights above us. The top however did begin to come into view, after one final stop it was just another 30minutes up the ramp. The group pushed on and finally after 5 1/2 hours we reached the top! Delighted but exhausted the group were totally elated and proud of thier achievement, even if Anna thought "Roraima was a doddle!"

The top of the mountain was awesome. Truly the most bizarre landscape I´m sure any of us had witnessed. Deep moon like craters, rocks balanced on top of one another, sand, shallow pools with the endemic plants growing from them and then the ´hotels´massive overhangs of rock with enough room for all the groups´tents underneath. A few of the group ventured to the edge of the moutain. The sheer vastness that met us is hard to describe. The immense savanna over which we had trekked lay spread out before us, the tiny path visible at points across the rolling hills, clouds lay shadows over the land. The vertical drop from the edge was spectacular and breathtaking. With the Kukenan Tepui to the right we could clearly see the feat we had accomplished. Morale was high and high and rightly so, the group looked forward to exploring the summit the following morning.

Roraima 2

5 am on Friday the 24th July. We awoke to a clear and sunny day. With bags packed and supplies on trucks we travelled the 1 1/2 hours to Paratepui, as the trucks bumped and raced along the dirt tracks we caught our first glimjpse of Roraima- the magnificent Tepui. Reaching up above the cloud only a small section of the summit was visible first thing that morning, but as the day progressed the cloud cleared and more of the mountain became visible. The huge flat topped monster towered above us and stayed there for the duration of the trek gradually becoming bigger as we progressed, only occassionally disappearing as we walked into a valley between the undulating hills of the savanna. Well trodden paths and our guides led us to our first camp site at Rio Kukenan where we crossed two rivers the Tek and Kukenan. Although the day was long the terrain was fairly easy and the group coped well, in fact we arrived at the lunch stop 40minutes AHEAD of schedule a feat never before accomplished by this group! The team all reached camp safely and although exhausted were pleased with their efforts. It was a bizarre but amazing experience bathing in the cool waters of the Rio Kukenan in the shadow of the mighty Roraima as the sun fell out of sight behind the Tepui casting shadows on the ground and enveloping the camp in darkness.

Waking up in the shadow of the the mountain we realised just how much ground we had covered the day before. The group set off at a steady pace and trekked across the slightly harder ground. The Roraima loomed ever closer and by lunch, after trekking through the endless savanna we were able to distinguish ´The Ramp´from the rest of the side of the Tepui. Pushing on after lunch saw the group make fantastic progress and a stop on top of a hill left the group in awe of the endless, barren savanna, no signs of inhabitants and the only evidence of trekkers being the narrow dusty path that snaked across the grassland. Reaching base camp the anticipation began to rise as well as apprehension...we could feel how close we were to the moutain which stood above us eerily dominating the sky line.

Stage 5: Roraima 1

As we sat on an overnight bus from Ciudad Bolivar to Santa Elena on the only road link between Brazil and Venezuela the feelings of excitement increased. Opening the curtains in the morning this time presented us with a very different landscape to that of the Northern coast line. No longer were we surrounded by tree covered mountains but endless, rolling savanna. in the distance gentle hills dotted with pockets of forest and isolated huts hurtled past us as we finally arrived in Santa Elena de Uairen the very first camp on our Roraima trek. Taxis whisked half the group to the camp site, whilst the rest of the challengers walked the few kilometres into town. As we walked we were aware of cars queuing for miles down the street. After consulting the guide book we discovered that these cars were in fact Venezuelans waiting to fill thier cars with cheap petrol to take over the border to Brazil and sell at a profit, taking advantage of the ridiculously low fuel prices here. Once at camp we met Andreas co owner of the Kamadac trekking company, having explained the plan for the next 6 days we decided to hire more porters from the Pemon village of Paratepui where we would be beginning our trek, enabling us to complete the trek successfully.

Stage 4

Klaus´mañana attitude meant that possibly the group were not always working as hard as maybe we had expected. Klaus, however was fairly emphatic when he explained that he wanted the group to see and understand what he was doing rather than work till they were exhausted. That said the group took part in a number of activities: visiting a local cacao plantation and purchasing young trees to plant, planting not only the cacao but also mahogany and plantain trees near Kalus´farmhouse, a huge rustic building set in stunning surroundings over looking a very still and almost eerie lake. Slowly paddling around the lake to feed the fishes we were informed that Cayman were often spotted here. Unfortunately we didn´t see any crocs but we did witness herds of buffalo, lizards, and various species of birds, although we were slightly too early in the season for the Scarlet Ibis. As daylight faded the group returned to camp.

At this point the trip took a slight change of direction. The two injured challengers were told they were to be repatriated as soon as possible, and would be able to take no further part in the expedition. Understandably both the girls, and the rest of the group were distraught. After waiting on a phone call, we found out at 5.30am Sunday morning that the plan was in place. Quickly packing our bags we travelled in the trucks to Carupano one last time, leaving the group behind was difficult but we embarked on our own mini adventure leaving the rest of the group to make bowls out of the local ´calabis´pods. After a one hour flight in a tiny air ambulance plane we found ourselves back in Caracas where we had started our Venezuelan adventure. Transferring from the plane to an ambulance we zig zagged through the traffic along the outskirts of Caracas. The shanty towns which had looked so beautiful at night revealed thier true colours in the daylight. Ramshackled buildings with crumbling walls, haphazardly clinging to the steep sides of the hills, reaching higher and higher towards the clouds.
After a night in a hotel, I left the girls at the airport and made my way back to the group. These things always have a habit of working out and after a day long journey I arrived at the bus terminal just 10minutes after the rest of the group.
Roy, the in-country agent for this area of Venezuela, welcomed us into his home where beds and air conditioned rooms awaited us. The luxury continued as not only were the group able to order pizza but also take advantage of the in house washing service.

After the relative isolation of Veulta Larga we found ourselves in the large, bustling town of Ciudad Bolivar which lies on the banks of the river Orinoco. Home to the place of Venezuelan liberation; along with other countries that were under Spanish rule at the time the historic centre is a maze of steep, cobbled streets with brightly painted buildings on either side. The Plaza Bolivar itself is lined with impressive colonial houses which are expertly painted in beautiful, vibrant colours but the beautiful cathedral dominates the scene. Exploring the Casa del Congreso de Angostura (where congress met to discuss plans) we were led out into a small courtyard with views over the rooftops of Ciudad Bolivar and across the expanse of the dark and surging Orinoco river. That evening the group made thier way down to the view point to watch the sun set over the river, with some impressive views of the Puente de Angostura upstream, this bridge was, for almost 30 years, the only bridge over the Orinoco.
After a couple of days here, the group are beginning to prepare themselves physically and mentally for the challenge before them...Roraima. With supplies bought, kit bags packed everyone is excited about the next stage of this amazing adventure.

Stage 3

Spirits were high with the promise of a beach at the end of a long trek; we set off at a steady pace with our newest group member ‘Gloria’ a tiny black dog. The increasingly difficult terrain proved a challenge for all of us, and as the trek continued it became clear that maybe this wasn’t going to be so simple after all. A long trek turned into a very long trek, around 4 o clock in the afternoon, after setting off at 7.30am one student fell on a descent and twisted her ankle. An emergency plan was put into place which resulted in the group bring split; darkness enveloped us as we sat waiting in the jungle, levels of anxiety rose. The sense of elation and relief as a light flashed through the trees towards the group was evident as a local from the search party appeared over the ledge. Whilst the student was stretchered off the rest of the group carefully, in the dark with head torches started their descent led by the rest of the locals who had kindly come to rescue us. Despite the anxiety, the experience pulled the group together and morale soon re appeared as the lights from our camp shined out like beacons on the hill. Exhausted, after over 14 hours on trek with several river crossings, the group soon fell asleep.

The group slowly awoke. Our haven after the events of the day before was Santa Isabel, a picturesque fishing village perched atop the cliffs, the waves crashed rhythmically and pelicans dived for their breakfast as we sat on the terrace and ate. Plans changed today and we no longer completed the proposed trek, instead most of the group made their way to an isolated beach just through the village. The houses; roughly painted in bright colours, a single track road and transport to and from the village by boat showed us just how remote this place was. The sandy beach and cool water provided rest for the group, the pelicans continue to dive their bodies forming harpoons catching fish in their beaks. Similarly the river rock pools in the afternoon gave the group chance to keep out of the punishing sun. As the sun set over the stunning view along the coast, it’s difficult to explain how sitting in a hammock on the other side of the world in such a beautiful, isolated place makes you feel. An experience not many of us will have the privilege to experience again.

With the first stage of our journey almost over we left Santa Isabel by fisherman’s boat, the group sat in awe at the dramatic coastline. Secluded beaches and remote, miniature villages passed us by as the boat flew through the Caribbean ocean powering towards out destination. Merida appeared as if from no where; an idyllic, paradise beach, palm trees lining the sands’ edge providing welcome relief from the sweltering sun, the warm, shallow waters perfect for paddling in. Locals cooking up arepas, plantains and freshly caught fish were pitched amongst the palms and provided the group with a tasty meal. As we arrived back at Vuelta Larga after the acclimatisation phase of the expedition we were looking forward to a local meal, in a small ‘restaurant’ a few hundred meters from the lodge. Basic but filling, we were pleasantly surprised by the steak, chicken and potatoes provided for us. A week into this trip and the group are really beginning to bond. Venezuela is undoubtedly a country of contrasts, it has constantly provided us with new and amazing experiences which are totally unforgettable.

As the next phase of the expedition began we were introduced to the project phase by Klaus, the owner of Vuelta Larga. His passion for his work projected onto the group, he is a firm believer that we should work to create a sustainable planet, developing it for future generations to help endangered species, and most importantly of all teaching others how to do the same. His ethos seems fairly clear; through education and experience we can all have a positive impact on the planet. Earth is amazing and different to every other planet because it sustains life, and we have a responsibility to keep it this way. The laid back attitude at Veulta Larga seems to have filtered into the project and despite a promising start it seems that we may not always be fully occupied this week. As we visited Klaus’ other hasienda just a few minutes from our camp we spent what could be no longer that an hour planting some banana trees and other plants. Klaus plants the sustainable caca plants alongside other more lucrative varieties such as mahogany and plantain. So it was after very little work that the group travelled to some nearby hot pools, clambering over rocks to reach the relaxing, surprisingly warm water.

Photos

I´ve added a couple of pictures to the slide show, now I know it works hopefully I can add a few more tomorrow!

Stage Two

Carupano is a fairly busy town with manic streets and noise battering you for all sides. A decidely rushed atmosphere exists, a total contrast to the laid back attitude we had witnessed in the villages, where relaxing outside houses, sitting on a tiny stall selling one product to no one or drinking tiny bottles of beer through a hole in the wall seemed to be the order of the day. We were met by Daniel and taken by open back truck to his Father´s hasienda Veulta Larga which would be our base for the next week or so.

The first night in Veulta Larga and group morale was high, some of us decided to sleep in hammocks dotted around the outbuildings. As we prepared for a night under the stars and our mosquito nets the local wildlife began to liven up crickets, birds and even howler monkeys chatted as we fell asleep.

After a rather slow start the following morning we eventually set off for Las Melanas the start of our Paria Peninsular trek. The trucks pulled us up the hill over lumps and bumps as we reached the top we looked out over the tree tops towards the sea. Signing in at the entrance of the jungle we discovered that no one had trekked this path for well over a month. A tough three hour trek had the group climbing hills, carefully picking safe decent paths and embracing the infrequent but heavy down pours mostly blocked by the thick forest canopy. The jungle was teeming with life a massive variety of trees all shapes and sizes, bugs galore(much to the disgust and terror of some of he group!), land crabs, a huge toad and even a lone snake.

The hard work however was worth it, as we reached the summit. Climbing the last section of track to peer over the brow of the mountain, the sight that met us left us speechless. Epic, never ending jungle blanketed the mountains. It was only later that night we saw small pockets of civilisation in the distance, lights sparkling on the hillside. With our tents pitched next to a couple of miniscule, basic shacks we could have been forgiven for thinking we were a million miles from anywhere. The inhabitants pulled fresh guavas of the trees and after cooking atop the mountain darkness descended and we retired to our tents ready for a very early start the next day.

Stage One

Venezuela. A country, it seems, famous only for its beauty queens, copious amounts of petrol oil and its outgoing and controversial president Chavez. Indeed banners stating "Si Chavez!" and "Uh Ah Chavez" adorn much of the wall space as we drove not only through Caracas but the local town of Carupano as well. Leaving Heathrow with a stop off in Madird we arrived in Venezuela´s capital. The humidity was intense as we waited at customs, a small incident with a missing tent meant we had our first team meeting in the baggage lounge at Caracas airport.
Meeting our in contry agent Tomy we felt slightly more at ease as he provided us with a few top tips, fuel for the Trangias and more importantly transport to the bus terminal. Despite the plane journey it was strangely pleasing to sit on an air conditioned coach, changing Dollars to Bolivars on the black market left us looking like millionaires, a stark contrast to the seeemingly never ending shanty towns surrounding the hills of Caracas, visible to us only by the thousands of twinkling lights illuminating the sky. The heat was oppressive as we sat, shattered in Caracas bus terminal, waiting for the overnight bus to Carupano, as we waited some of our party tried thier first taste of Venezuelan cusine, empinadas, deep fried chicken, fish or cheese. The bus ride itself although uneventful, was long, but spirits were lifted as we drew the curtains to reveal a sunrise over a dramatic coastal landscape. A quick stop at a roadside cafe described by Amy as a sort of ´Welcome Break´ (without toilet paper, refridgeration and sporting a decidedly open air feel, i hasten to add!) Breakfast saw us trying another Venezuelan speciality árepas´corn bread stuffed with a filling of your choice. Finally after almost 37hours travelling we arrived in the town of Carupano.

New Blog!

Welcome to our blog! It's four days before we leave for Venezuela and I'm sure most of us nearly packed...or maybe not! We have kept cotswolds in business for another year, and are no longer feeling like pin cushions. The excitement must be building as we prepare for the trip of a life time.

Hopefully the group will be able to keep you updated of their progress over the next four weeks...